In the painting, the slices lie side by side with the other ordinary elements of a modest meal, such as gepresste kop [which the British call ‘brawn’, and the Americans ‘headcheese’]. No culinary delights, just the everyday fare of ordinary Brussels residents. Which should come as no surprise: Brusselmans spent much of his life in poverty. Daily life, with its simple interiors and unglamorous objects, formed an important part of his world. In his work, a piece of sausage receives the kind of attention usually reserved for a flower arrangement or a bowl of fruit. But what exactly is lying on Jean Brusselmans’s table?
A sausage with a Brussels twist
Anyone ordering bloedpanch in Brussels would be wise not to expect your run-of-the-mill black pudding. Although the recipe itself is not exclusive to Brussels (similar sausages exist elsewhere in the world), the name has a unique history in this city. A bloedpanch is made from various parts of the pig, combined with its blood, fat and back fat. Cinnamon and cloves provide the seasoning, whilst caramelised onion adds a slightly sweet note. The result is a hearty, distinctive sausage that remains true to its origins.
The name bloempanch also sometimes raises eyebrows. The term refers to a variant that includes flour, which makes it cheaper to produce. Traditionally, the sausage was working-class food. And where better for that tradition to take root than in the Marolles, Brussels’ quintessential working-class neighbourhood? The people of the Marolles were known as lovers of this hearty fare. There’s even a ‘Bloempanch’ alley! According to legend, a marital row there once escalated to the point where a woman, in a fit of rage, threw a bloempanch at her husband.
Spek & Boonen
Nowadays, it’s harder to find bloedpanch. One of the places where the sausage is still made is the butcher’s shop Spek & Boonen on Blaesstraat, a stone’s throw from Vossenplein. Butcher Bjorn Boonen works according to the ‘nose-to-tail’ principle: the whole animal is used, not just the most popular cuts.
Bloedpanch fits perfectly into that philosophy. After all, what used to be a natural way of using up less popular parts of the pig is now in danger of falling into oblivion. The result is not only a piece of culinary heritage, but also a plea against food waste. At Spek & Boonen, the sausage is prepared according to a traditional recipe, in limited quantities and with plenty of time and care. It is therefore not necessarily available every day at the counter, so ordering in advance is the way to go.
Le P’tit Normand, a charcuterie shop near the Brussels Stock Exchange, is another place to keep in mind. The bloedpanch may not be their bestseller, but connoisseurs still seek it out. Older Brussels residents in particular seem to cherish the taste of this traditional sausage. Is the bloedpanch destined to disappear alongside the authentic Brussels dialect? Let’s hope not. Maybe the Brusselmans exhibition will play a part in returning the delicacy to the spotlight.
Putting it to the test
Time to put theory to the test. In the corridors of the Bozar offices, a bloedpanch tasting caused quite a stir. Upon seeing the sausage, some people mistook it for a chocolate delicacy, whilst others immediately recognised the iconic sausage. Several colleagues took their first bite with gusto, but most needed a little more persuading.
Unfortunately, curator Ann Geeraerts wasn’t immediately won over by this Brussels speciality. Perhaps a universal reconciliation between art and charcuterie isn’t on the cards just yet? But tastes differ, and perhaps that’s precisely the charm of a dish that has held its own unique place on the Brussels table for generations.
Brusselmans and Brussels
The bloedpanch isn’t the only slice of Brussels you’ll find in the exhibition. In Bathing Vagrants Brusselmans brings together several recognisable landmarks from the Brussels skyline: the St Michael and St Gudula Cathedral, the Town Hall tower and the Palace of Justice – almost unrecognisable without its scaffolding, but that’s beside the point.
For an extra helping of Brusselmans and Brussels, visit the exhibition Jean Brusselmans: Painter by Nature, running until 31 January 2027 at Bozar. Brussels, Brusselmans, the bloedpanch… All are often unjustly underappreciated. It’s high time for a revival.
